The route of Quarry Lane still exists, from the bottom of East Wonford Hill, past the Heavitree Stone quarries, and east along the Sidmouth Road.
The other old way zigzagged from Salter’s Road to Clyst Road. Woodwater Lane, Digby Drive, the footpath to Baxter Close, and Clyst Halt Avenue to Old Rydon Close still follow the route, although much of it has been erased by Exe Vale Retail Park, the railway, and fields around Sandy Park.
The area from Rydon Park to Toby Carvery used to be occupied by a military camp. It is recorded on Luftwaffe aerial photographs of 1st July 1940. It is possible that this is ‘Bypass Camp’ which was the base for the 4th United States Army Quartermaster Company and 704th Ordnance Company of the 4th Infantry Division by 1944. The name is probably related to its location alongside Rydon Lane, which was built in 1935. There was also a Bypass Airfield on what is now St Peter’s School.
Thank you for asking! When I named the “Star Spangled Kyrangle”, I thought it was common knowledge, as it is marked on Google Maps. But it managed to bemuse some local residents who hadn’t heard the name before.
It’s the area of green next to Clyst Heath School, west of the railway line. In times past, the area used to be a quarry and source of red sand. I wonder whether ‘Kyrangle’ is a corruption of ‘quarry’.
Here is what the area looks like on the old OS map from 1873-88 compared with today.
St Loyes is a mishmash of council housing, mobile homes, old and new suburbs, industrial estate, retail park, M5 J30 services and part of Ludwell Valley Park.
There is no community centre, post office, or anything obvious that connects people and provides heart. There are a few cafés for workers on Sowton, but there aren’t really any eateries or watering holes for locals. Most are for shoppers, or for people passing through on business or holiday. There’s nowhere I’d really like to meet up with a friend for a nice cup of tea, or go for a meal, or have a relaxing pint on a summer evening.
The schools provide some space for meeting, and rent out their halls to groups, but it’s not quite the same as having a dedicated space like at Newcourt. In some parts of St Loyes, there aren’t even any noticeboards for advertising events and activities.
It would be nice to have a place that brings people together and could be used as an art space too. Where might such a community hub be located?
There is a patch of derelict land almost slap bang in the middle of the ward near Middlemoor that might be an option. I had a go at dreaming and creating a possible building in the St Loyes Minecraft world. Not terribly successfully, it has to be said. Minecraft can help you imagine all these things and ask what if? questions. Maybe someone could do a better job.
The site is also problematic because it used to be a petrol station and the land needs a lot of work to make it safe. It looks green on Google Maps because it’s overgrown concrete reverting to nature! So maybe there are other possibilities. Let it be, and let it rewild itself, as a pocket of biodiversity? Or perhaps put up a gazebo and bunting, drag in some armchairs for the day, and hold a random picnic? Any other ideas?
Exeter City Futures have produced a St Loyes world in Minecraft for me. After flying around it for a while, I started seeking out some interesting views and taking screenshots.
Then I made myself a St Loyes Tourist Board hat, put it on, and had some fun making these old-style railway posters. Hopefully a couple will make an appearance during Art Week Exeter, in the showcase AWEsome Art Fair and Art Around the City.
Click on the thumbnail image for a bigger version.
I turned the screenshots into a postcard too…
…and took some more screenshots of the four schools in the ward. Maybe I need a new St Loyes Education Board (SLEB) hat!
Back when I was still thinking about what a programme of public in art in St Loyes might look like, I went for a wander around the ward with Rosie King. Rosie is an environmental artist with an interest in place and its buildings. I first came across her in 2015 when she was chalking on the pavement of Princesshay. It turned out she was drawing the outline of the Exeter Phoenix, Thomas Sharp’s plans for rebuilding Exeter after World War II.
We found a great deal to mull over:
St Loyes as the digestive system of Exeter, the source of much of what it needs: water, energy, comms companies have offices there; Sowton supplies building materials, Amazon, Booker; police, fire, ambulance have bases.
St Loyes is on the east side of the city; it’s where the sun rises and the day starts.
Transience & liminality: arterial routes bounding or cutting through; holiday makers on change-over day at the J30 services; shoppers at Exe Vale retail park; boulders placed against travellers.
Navigating boundaries: flowering bedding plants in strict lines are used to ‘fence off’ suburban properties; remote civil servants draw invisible boundaries around school catchments, health authorities, constituencies, council wards, and even dustbin collections!
Navigating changing land use: industrial estates lead to suburbia to retail parks, which is a good thing if people can live near where they shop and work and go to school, and get in the car less and build community more.
Urban design priorities, and subverting them: road crossings fit with cars rather than people on foot; desire paths where the crossings are made anyway; men in hi-vis jackets, using the boulders as a smoking stop; the homeless man making a camp.
Green space: all the trees and mini-wildernesses, and dens; pockets of green and biodiversity; picnic tables and benches dotted around Sowton.
Different areas of knowledge held by different people: where to forage for cherries, plums and blackberries; where parking spots for campervans are available.
‘Waves of immigration’ and its associated architecture: pre-war council housing; suburbs of the 1960s and 1970s boom; new suburban in-fill estates, building on the green lungs.
Signage: restricting parking; designated activity zones; rules in playgrounds and other possibly community space.
Here are Rosie’s photos of suburban architecture through the ages…
At lunchtime, on a green verge in Sowton industrial estate, we saw some workmen in their hi-vis resting on a line of boulders and having a smoke. At the time, the boulders spoke to us of exclusion; they are there to prevent travellers from parking up on the verge. But later, we saw campervans parked up in another part of the industrial estate. The owners of the campervans knew where they could park, and this led us to think further about subversion.
Sowton Industrial Estate isn’t just a group of large industrial, office and retail buildings where people drive to go to work or shop. Some people live there, a lot of nature lives there, and the green pockets are quite productive. Rosie and I did our own minor bit of subversion by foraging for blackberries along one hedge. The boundaries are blurred.
How do you behave in your space? Do you obey all the signs? Flout them? Take them overly literally? Do you follow the unwritten rules… how tidy do you keep your garden compared to your neighbours?! How much do you respect boundaries, between public, community and private, or different types of land use? Do you play in it, and make faces out of old quarry faces?
St Loyes is very much designed for the car, but there are many signs of subversion here too. Rosie and I saw and followed many desire paths, paths made by people taking the easiest route between places. The best example of these desire paths are between the pedestrian crossings at the traffic junctions on the Rydon Lane ring road, which are located according to design for the car, not for the people using them. On either side of the dual carriageway, the footpaths from the offices of Pynes Hill and the Exe Vale Retail Park actually emerge about halfway between the crossings. And so there are many paths in the grass verge where office workers have simply taken the most direct route to cross.
St Loyes may be designed for the car, but real people are subverting this all the time. How instead can we design for people? Maybe we should start with these desire paths by putting up some street signs!
In a ward that is mostly council housing, suburbs, industrial and retail park, and motorway services, tranquility might seem to be at a premium. Yet there are many pockets of green space in St Loyes. One of my ideas for this art programme is to hold some St Loyes Random Picnics, or SLuRPs for short! They would be an opportunity for residents and workers to visit measure the air quality, noise, and the types of transport used in the area.
Last year’s wander around St Loyes with Rosie King revealed where people spend their time, and their rest time. At lunchtime in Sowton, for example, we noticed a group of workmen in hi-vis resting on the boulders lining a grassy roadside, and having a smoke. These pockets of green, in the middle of a roundabout, or on a green verge in an industrial estate, are not particularly tranquil in themselves, but they are relatively tranquil compared with the workplace or the surrounding area.
So what is the best use of limited local government budgets? I reckon people would benefit most if these relatively tranquil spaces could be improved, rather than putting the money into those already recognisably tranquil spaces.
Where are your tranquil places? Where do you forage for cherries, plums and blackberries? Or perhaps that’s a closely-guarded secret! Why not share some photos of your regular and favourite spots on Exeter City Future’s #tranquilcity map.
Where might you suggest holding a random picnic? My ideas include: tree henge at M5 J30 services; old quarry face and green space at Britten Drive off Quarry Lane; water tower at Exe Vale; green space by the old Digby Asylum; derelict patch of land by the Toby Carvery; middle of Middlemoor roundabout; playgrounds; triangle between Rydon Lane, slip road, and A379 spur
Rosie and I found all sorts of green in Sowton: trees and mini-wildernesses, and dens; pockets of vegetation and biodiversity; picnic tables and benches dotted around. Wandering round the suburban parts, however, I was remembering all the open space and field that has now been built on, even in the 15 years I lived here! It’s affecting both out physical and mental health. We are building on the lungs of Exeter that filter out air pollution, and losing access to that green space that boosts our mood.
Let’s inhabit, celebrate, and preserve the green and the tranquility that we have!
St Loyes is a ward within Exeter City Council on the east side of the city. The current boundaries were set in the City Council’s 2016 reorganisation, and can be seen in the map below… together with a suggested route for ‘beating the bounds’ using different modes of transport.
St Loyes and Topsham are anomalous in Exeter, both wards being moved from the Exeter constituency to East Devon in 2010. The constituency boundaries are based on the old St Loyes ward, before the City Council reorganisation in 2016, so now the two don’t match. I need to check, but I think the boundaries of the Devon County Council electoral division of Wonford and St Loyes are based on the constituency boundaries. I do know that they don’t match the City Council boundaries. All potentially very confusing! We are waiting until September 2018 to find out whether the Boundary Commission recommends St Loyes be moved back into the Exeter constituency.
So at the moment St Loyes is a mix of council housing, mobile homes, old and new suburbs, industrial estate, retail park, M5 J30 services and part of Ludwell Valley Park. Bizarrely, it doesn’t include either the area around St Loyes Road often labelled as ‘St Loyes’ on maps, nor the old St Loyes Foundation site, nor even St Loyes Chapel, which is the wrong side of Rifford Road.
There are three primaries, one secondary school, a couple of small churches, and a few public sector organisations. There isn’t really a pub for locals, and other than a few cafés for workers on Sowton, most of the eateries are for shoppers and people passing through. It has no community centre, post office, or anything obvious that connects people and provides heart.
But take a wander or scratch the surface, and it is immensely interesting.
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